The Bitter End of a Brisket Legacy: What Backyard Barbeque's Closure Reveals About the Restaurant Industry
There’s something deeply unsettling about a beloved restaurant closing, especially one that’s become a fixture in its community. When I heard about Backyard Barbeque in Freeport shutting its doors, my first thought was, why now? Peak season, no less. It’s like losing a favorite book from the library just as you’re about to recommend it to everyone.
Backyard Barbeque wasn’t just another barbecue joint. Opened by Archie Ware in 2018 and later handed over to his son Kenneth, a classically trained chef with Michelin-starred credentials, it was a place where tradition met innovation. Their brisket was legendary, their sauces and pickles made in-house—a rarity in a world of pre-packaged shortcuts. But what makes this closure particularly fascinating is the story behind it.
The Perfect Storm of Challenges
Kenneth Ware’s candid remarks about the difficulties of running a restaurant on the Nautical Mile are a masterclass in the realities of the industry. “You really gotta go in on all cylinders,” he said. And he’s not wrong. The Nautical Mile, despite its year-round operation, struggles to attract consistent foot traffic. Personally, I think this is a classic case of perception versus reality. Most people assume it’s a seasonal hotspot, but the truth is, it’s open year-round, and businesses there are fighting an uphill battle for visibility.
What many people don’t realize is how much external factors can cripple a restaurant. Fines, noise complaints, legal fees—these aren’t just minor inconveniences; they’re existential threats. The altercation in the shared parking lot that led to a temporary closure in 2021 wasn’t just a PR nightmare; it was a financial one. Kenneth hired a lawyer, held a protest, and fought back, but the damage was done. If you take a step back and think about it, this is a microcosm of the broader challenges restaurants face: one misstep, one unforeseen incident, and everything can unravel.
The Human Cost of Culinary Ambition
Kenneth Ware’s story is particularly compelling because it’s not just about a restaurant closing—it’s about a chef’s dream being tested. Here’s a guy who worked in Michelin-starred kitchens, who could’ve stayed in the high-end culinary world, but chose to take over a family business in a challenging location. Why? Because, in my opinion, there’s something deeply personal about running a restaurant that’s tied to your roots.
But the irony here is heartbreaking. Despite being a critic’s favorite, making Newsday’s list of top barbecue spots, and being a pillar of the Long Island Black community (Kenneth was elected president of the Black Restaurant Coalition in 2024), the restaurant couldn’t survive. This raises a deeper question: if a place with this much talent, community support, and critical acclaim can’t make it, what hope is there for others?
The Broader Implications for the Industry
Kenneth’s observation that “restaurants across Long Island and the five boroughs are constantly dealing with the same things” hits home. It’s not just about one restaurant or one location; it’s about systemic issues in the industry. From my perspective, the restaurant business is a high-wire act without a safety net. Margins are razor-thin, competition is fierce, and external pressures—from rising costs to bureaucratic red tape—are relentless.
What this really suggests is that the romanticized image of the restaurant industry is a myth. It’s not all Instagram-worthy dishes and happy customers. Behind the scenes, it’s a grind, and the odds are often stacked against you. A detail that I find especially interesting is how Kenneth’s experience highlights the lack of support from local authorities. Noise complaints, fines, and a general lack of understanding about the challenges restaurants face can be the final straw for businesses already on the edge.
Looking Ahead: What’s Next for Backyard Barbeque?
The silver lining here is Kenneth’s resilience. In their Instagram post, they promised, “We will be back—stronger than ever.” I genuinely hope they are. There’s something inspiring about someone who can look at a setback and see it as an opportunity to regroup and rebuild. But it also makes me wonder: what will it take for them to succeed next time?
If you ask me, the key lies in community support and a reevaluation of how local governments interact with small businesses. Restaurants like Backyard Barbeque aren’t just places to eat; they’re cultural hubs, community gathering spots, and economic drivers. Losing them isn’t just a loss for food lovers—it’s a loss for everyone.
Final Thoughts
The closure of Backyard Barbeque is more than just a local news story; it’s a cautionary tale about the fragility of the restaurant industry. It’s a reminder that behind every great meal is a team of people fighting to keep the doors open. Personally, I think we need to start treating restaurants less like disposable entertainment and more like the vital institutions they are.
As for Kenneth Ware and his team, I have no doubt they’ll be back. And when they are, I’ll be first in line for that brisket. Because if there’s one thing this story has taught me, it’s that good food—and the people who make it—are worth fighting for.
